Surfing is a frustrating endeavor sometimes. The whole game is about looking and waiting. You wait for those wonderful days where everything lines up, but they’re often few and far between. You wait for the tides, the swell, and the weather to dance in synchronicity. You wait for those days when the dance occurs and on a few people are there to enjoy it. And if you surf enough, it happens. Not all that often, but it happens.
The latest episode of Von Rupp’s series, Von Froth, begins with a Portuguese summer. He doesn’t often spend his summers at home, but this year… well, this year’s a little different. While he’s still having a good time, he figured he’d tell the story of his “best session ever captured on one of Bali’s best mysto rights.” It was April in Bali. Early season. For the most part, things are just beginning to wind up that time of year.
“You don’t get big swells, you don’t get perfect winds,” he said. “All of a sudden this huge swell pops up. Woke up the next morning, checked out some local spots, then I heard about this amazing secret spot that never works. I rocked up in the morning with my buddy Marco Giorgi and we couldn’t believe our eyes. It was perfect.”
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