Malibu is famous for two things: its importance in shaping surfing culture and the absolute chaos in its lineup. Many a surfer has been drawn to the legendary break after hearing stories of Malibu in the late ’50s and early ’60s, only to be confronted by a lawless thunderdome in which no surfer goes un-snaked. Now, Ben Gravy has finally joined the ranks of the initiated by experiencing the pain and glory of First Point.
It’s actually somewhat surprising that this was Gravy’s first time at the break, as he’s spent years traveling around the world surfing novelty waves. In this case, the novelty comes from ducking and weaving through a sea of Wavestorms and longboards, but it’s an experience nonetheless.
“Kind of blew away my expectations,” said Gravy of the experience. “Honestly, not as much carnage as I thought there was going to be out there. There weren’t as many people snaking as I thought.”
