It’s silly that surfing can make you so damn happy. It’s really simple, we just make it complicated. Catch wave. Ride wave. Experience unparalleled joy. Frantically rush back for more. Rinse and repeat.
Exercise this formula in an ocean different from the one in which you’re most familiar with and you have a recipe for disaster. Sure, it sounds amazing but think of the consequences. The simplicity of that routine and its power puts a lot of things in perspective. More times than not you run into the “Why don’t I just stay here” wall. Why bother flying back home, clocking in, clocking out, making car payments and paying rent when everything you really want or need seems to be packed into those few seconds of riding a wave? Sure, 99 people out of 100 get back on that return flight. But we all at least ask the question.
So could you ever prove, beyond the shadow of a doubt, that happiness can’t be found behind the curtain of a very hollow, very blue and very salty barrel?
Benjamin Sanchis is making a very good case for my argument at Kandui here. Catch wave. Ride wave. Get barreled. Showcase unparalleled joy. Rush back for more. Rinse and repeat.
Heck, he doesn’t even need the full six minutes to be so convincing.
WHERE IS SANCHO l KANDUI from FTR Films on Vimeo.
