Photo: Seth Doyle / Unsplash
We all share a desire for that inexplicable feeling of gliding on a wave. Many of us find it hard to put it into the right words but we are often fine with that. For the majority of surfers, the act of riding a wave doesn’t have to apply a tangible accomplishment in the same way we as many other pursuits in our daily life. The beauty is that’s what makes it so special; an inability to fully explain what it means, why we do it, or even what we gain.
It’s easy to notice how our inherent need for definitions challenges the romanticized perception of surfing and sometimes we end up struggling to keep the fire burning. Throughout our lives, surfers may encounter phases of demotivation (or surf depression). But just like the waves of life experiences, the outcome of any particular situation depends heavily on your attitude towards it all.
I believe that being “against surf monotony” is a positive alternative to making it through the down times as well as enhancing surfing skills and knowledge in new ways. After all, we didn’t choose to surf for its linearity and monotonousness.
The Quiver Approach
Adding variety to our quiver is an effective way to go against the waves of monotony. Not only do different boards provide us with more options for distinct conditions but they also bring the whole experience back to its roots of sheer fun. The opportunity to experiment with different types of craft allows for a better feeling of both the wave and yourself, improving some aspects of technique that might go unnoticed when riding the everyday thruster. It’s unquestionably harder to airdrop into hollow waves with a flat and fat, old school, twin-fin fish, but this apparent deficiency may channel your focus to other approaches on a wave. Longboards can shift attention to positioning your stance; single fins will definitely test your balance; a mini-Simmons can stimulate control and hip-shoulder game. And if you want to push the scope of technique even further, give yourself an education in the importance of your rails by going finless with an Alaia. The options are endless.
Surf In(g) Life
There is also mental and/or emotional gain when striving for a diverse surf life. Regardless of swell direction, you can use a surf trip as an excuse to actually go camping with friends or spend some quiet time surrounded by nature at your favorite secret spot. You may modify your diet for better performance at sea, quit smoking, attend that yoga class at 7 am, read surf literature, or slow down on drinking so hangovers don’t kill your morning sessions. The battle against monotony in surfing can be a healthy and worthwhile excuse for positive changes in life.
Feel It, Don’t Fight It
If it makes you feel good then you should chase it, period. A solid swell or an epic month spent in Indo can spoil us to the point of overlooking the reality of the moment. Those days when the waves look nothing like a magazine cover are the days we most often talk ourselves out of getting in the water. Unless you have a compelling reason not to surf, you should avoid this mindset. We all know how good it feels to have our bodies rinsed with salt water.
Uncrowded vs. Crowded
This is where we apply that age-old wisdom of knowing any situation is only as good or miserable as our attitude toward it. Instead of cursing the busy lineup you find yourself in, try cracking a smile and starting a conversation. You never know where it may take you. I once met a guy in the water somewhere in the Caribbean who kept in touch over the next year, eventually inviting me to join him sailing his yacht across the Pacific to French Polynesia. Everyone would choose a friend over an enemy and although surfing is a selfish sport, its essence is selfless.
Risk It for a Biscuit
No kid has ever jumped on a bike and rode away on their first try. It probably took a few falls for you to perfect pushing those pedals and controlling the handlebars, and eventually, you got the hang of it. It shouldn’t be any different with surfing. If there is a specific move, body position, or particular wave situation you wish to master, try meditating on it before getting in the water. Once you’re out in the lineup, go for it. Just like riding that bike, once you get a hang of it all, the wipeouts are suddenly worth it.
And remember, in the end, it’s just water.
