Surfers embellish stories of the waves they catch. And if they’re not exaggerating the magnificence of their greatest rides in a way that instills terror into others, they’re downplaying it in an effort to appear even cooler. It’s like a character flaw we all share that prohibits us from just being honest about the waves we surf.
Brett Barley doesn’t need to embellish anything here. He says he spent 24 seconds behind the curtain of a Skeleton Bay screamer and thanks to technology, has the appropriate timer to prove it. And guess what else, he’s not trying to downplay it either. He’s stoked. You would be geeking out too if you spent more time in a single barrel than most surfers are treated to over the course of an entire year.
