Photographer / Surfer

The Inertia

Like most mornings before heading into work, I take at look at the ocean. On the morning of December 12 the ocean was basically flat in spite of an expected swell. Around 10 AM I checked the cams, hoping to see something, but it was still micro. By noon I finally received a few texts. The ocean had a pulse and lines were showing. As the tide filled in so did the swell and conditions began firing. I captured some of the best tubes of the season and kept shooting until daylight ran out.

The next south swell came just six days later and this one had its moments as well. The pulse started to show the night before and by late morning the swell was producing. However, the weather conditions switched a few times during this session. Wind was strong with periods of drizzle and the temperature was dropping throughout the afternoon. Here a some highlights from both sessions.






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