For me, this video means gratitude–to share the stoke with a good friend and our kids learning to surf together. Cory has always been very helpful to my path in surfing. I remember him calling me one late summer day telling me how Luke, his youngest grom, was doing these rad sit down drops and riding them to the shore. I could hear his stoke as a youngster coming out. It was kind of like those years we filmed so many heavy sessions at Log Cabins, and all Cory would care about was how pitted he was going to get.
Things have changed since then, and now we both are raising kids and sharing the ocean with them. We had planned this day for a few weeks hoping to get a nice afternoon high tide in Bethune Beach in front of my parents’ house, where I grew up. Sharing a lifelong spot with special people makes it even more special to me. It’s a roots thing, I guess, one that comes from our souls.
When summer break hits, the kids are psyched for surf camp. That’s when older brother Shea runs his 6-8 week camp filled with surf, snorkeling and fishing. It’s nice to see that Shea and Cory have settled here in Volusia County. I remember them coming a bunch in our early …Lost days. With all the new generation of Lopez’s on the Ponce Inlet side, there will be a talented force to reckon with for years to come.