Earlier this winter, I made the unfortunate decision to try and duck dive an outside set at VFW’s in Ocean Beach, San Francisco on an overhead-plus day. It was my first surf on a brand new 6’6”, 35-liter G Money II from Doc Lausch of Surf Prescriptions and I was under the (misguided) impression that I could duck dive anything that came my way on this narrow, knifey vehicle. I was wrong.
The wave reared up in front of me and I buried my board, probably just a fraction of a second too early, and nowhere near deep enough. Instead of making it through the face, the lip landed on my back, taking me and my board for a washing machine ride. In the tumbling that followed I somehow kicked my fins and when I surfaced, not only was I bleeding profusely but I had completely wrecked the left fin box of my brand new board without catching a single wave. As I rode the whitewash in, all I could think was, “Why the hell didn’t I just ditch the board?”