You can find surf all over the world, but some places make you work more for it than others. One of those places is New Zealand, where weird wave hunter Dylan Graves traveled to get a first-hand experience of what it’s really like to be an Aotearoa surfer.
To truly get a handle on what it means to surf New Zealand, Graves teamed up with local surfer and guide Damian “Dooma” Phillips, along with a core group of local rippers, who shepherded him from one break to another. That process was by no means an easy one, as the waves are very far apart, often requiring as much as a three-hour drive through harsh weather. Things didn’t let up much once they got in the water, either, with frigid temperatures, unpredictable conditions and harsh weather testing their willpower as much as their surfing skill.
Still, in the end, Dylan emerged from his immersion into the life of a New Zealand surfer with a sense of optimism and stoke that matched the energy of the locals.
“Definitely as core as it gets, here. All the locals willing to do the mahi as many times as it takes to get the treats,” sums up Graves, referring to an idiom spouted off by one of his teenaged tour guides. “And you can’t help but be all in on that vibe when you’re here. Yes, it might be cold. You might have to drive far, sea lions may confront you, penguins may be elusive, but you have screensaver views everywhere, and a good crew of people, all pushing each other, trying to be the best version of themselves, in or out of the water. Rain, shine or sea lions, this crew is on it. Gloves optional.”
