Why do we surf? Or why do we do anything that we enjoy, for that matter?
It’s for the simple feeling of joy, which is perhaps the most fulfilling sensation we can feel. The tingling in the toes, the ability to be totally in the moment, to commune with yourself, others, and nature is utter blessedness.
For many, surfing is where we seek solace. It is where we find balance. It is what enables us to forget about pain and shed the stresses of our daily lives. Being in the water is what brings us the most natural sense of enjoyment. Above all, being in the water has healing qualities unlike anything else. Lineups do have their share of people riding the agro-train, but those folks–although tearing apart a wave and fulfilling their ego–are missing the greatest gifts surfing has to offer: Unity, togetherness, oneness, and appreciation.
If we come to this state of consciousness of admiring the sea for the natural gifts she offers, then we are on the right track towards a more peaceful life and planet. When taking a peaceful approach to the ocean, one can easily recognize the power of that which is. The moving sea. Our beloved friend and place of worship. Time slows and the matrix becomes alive. There is much to take from these magical moments with the sea, all of which can be applied to our daily lives.
One of those elements is respect. If it weren’t for her and her natural ways, we wouldn’t have the sport, the lifestyle, or the culture we all feel so akin to. So, of course, we must give credit where it is due. But are we too far away from drawing the line between respect and assuming responsibility as caretakers? I like to think we aren’t. If surfers don’t care about the environment, how can we expect anyone else to? Our passion and happiness depends on it. Therefore, we must stand up and be the voice of change for the ocean and her health.
But how do we accomplish this? By our daily choices: the things we buy, what we grow or don’t grow, the words we say, the thoughts we think–everything matters. Believing that we CAN change the world’s current onslaught on the environment is the first step in creating an environment conducive to change. However, we must unify in order to fulfill that belief.
Let’s return to the question: Why do we surf? Whether it’s for selfish personal and physical achievement, a surfer is still learning about the unity of his or her own mind and body. But in order to take this feeling further, so that it permeates and transforms who we are in our daily lives, we must allow the sea to raise our consciousness. We must allow it to calm our spirits and give us peace.
The sea never stops giving. So as we enter it, we should ask permission and say thank you–and emulate those aspects in our own lives. We should allow ourselves to unite with each other and give unconditionally, just like the sea.
After all, every wave is a gift; an opportunity for unity. The water in you is the water in me, and the same as the sea.