I am 28 years old, transplanted from a childhood in Hawaii to an attempt at adulthood in the city of Los Angeles.
I hesitate to call myself a photographer. These days that term has lost a lot of its weight. Anyone can be a photographer, and I know this because up until two years ago, I was anyone.
I am lazier than hell. Ask any of my friends.
I’d always wanted to get into photography, but couldn’t find the time in my busy schedule of procrastination.
Then digital came along.
In a way, it ruined photography. People like me could pick up a camera and enjoy an almost instantaneous learning curve. No trial and error, no dark room required. And with a safety net called Photoshop magically fixing any errors in execution, VOILA! We’re all photographers.
I hate to sit on the beach. I don’t even really like sand, to be honest. I find it annoying. I could never just watch from the beach, nor could I bring myself to swim around in the impact zone. All the photos you see here were taken during the “surf check” portion of the mission. For me, getting good waves has always been the point, and taking a photo is just an awesome way to rub it in your friend’s face on Monday.
So to recap, I lack the patience to properly learn photography, and I lack the commitment to properly document surfing.
I hope you find that refreshing.
The images and words you see here are what it looks like to be on the search for waves and fun.
