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The Inertia

Koa Rothman was checking Pipe at 7:10 am on this morning, obviously anticipating some early season October barrels. That didn’t exactly pan out, though. So he bobs and weaves his way down Ke Nui road for exactly a mile and a half to check Sunset Beach. He’d been told it was firing there. Surely, he can score.

Nope. Classic case of “shoulda been here an hour ago.”

He calls friends. Some are lagging. They all discuss which wave should be good this morning but magically, nothing’s really feeling right. He sits at a table with his coffee from the Sunrise Shack. More phone calls. More debating. Ugh, if only Pipe had been working.

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Finally, nearly two hours after that initial surf check, Koa decides on Sunset Beach after all.

It’s early season along the 7 Mile Miracle. Everything’s starting to come alive as far as waves are concerned, with none of the mayhem of North Shore winter crowds to accompany them. For the few who truly call this place home, days like this are the reward that follows a wave-starved summer. But damn us all if excitement and anticipation don’t bring out the nitpicking of conditions in every one of us.

You’ve lived this morning. Swap out the locations and the waves here for whatever your favorites are but the point is, we’ve all lived this morning. We’ve all woken up at dawn with the grandest of expectations only to be let down. We’ve all bounced from spot to spot, thinking the sand will have filled in perfectly here or the angle will probably be hitting it just right there. Inevitably, precious hours are lost because we’re unable to pull the trigger.

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Of course, one major difference for Koa here is he does eventually score classic Pipe on this day. So he’s definitely got that going for him.

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