Surfer, Shaper, Regional Forecaster
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The Inertia

2017 was a weird one for me. My relationship with surfing changed. It was and still is hard to define what exactly that change was, but it surely had a lot to do with my dad passing away from cancer. So, like many other things in my life, surfing took on a different role.

I still caught waves every chance I had but something was missing. For some reason, my drive just wasn’t there. I tried to get it back by surfing every board I could get my hands on and after a few new shapes, I rediscovered my love for longboarding.

Now that 2017 is behind me, I can definitely tell you surfing kept me from losing my mind during a time when everything else already seemed lost. This little edit is all about taking what we know and rediscovering it with a new point of view.

 
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