“Whether you’re a beginner or someone like me who’s been doing it for 45 years, you find it tickles your soul in some profound manner.” -Gerry Lopez
If anybody in the world knows about the inability to walk away from waves it’s Mr. Pipeline. And no matter how old we get and how long you do it, surfing never really wears out its welcome. The same could be said by anybody with the same passion for skating, snowboarding, you name it. Because if you love it when you’re five, odds are you’re gong to love it just as much when you’re 95.
Editor’s Note: To see more check out The Search For Freedom, the story of a cultural revolution fueled by the human desire to live in the moment and do what makes you feel most alive.
