Editor’s Note: #HeavyMissions is a brand new series featuring surfing’s big-wave elite members. These are the stories told by the watermen and women from the heaviest waves around the world. The second in the series is big-wave hellman from the UK, Jayce Robinson.
It will be winter soon here in the UK. I’ll be sitting at home tucked up cozy with a cup of tea, sitting in front of a warm fire. It won’t be long before I check the charts and see a massive low pressure system thundering across the Atlantic. From that very moment is when the mission begins. My stomach curdles as I’m overwhelmed by a panicked rush to organize equipment, ferries, flights, and so on. Before you know it, it’s on. You’re on the road with your mates trying to get to your destination before the low pressure does. The battle is about to ensue. That cozy arm chair in front of the fire is now miles away, but I know it will be awaiting my return. My head fills with mixed emotions. Negative thoughts creep in on the night drive without any sleep. However, daylight brings excitement.
We finally arrive. Maybe not with the amount of preparation I would’ve liked, but that doesn’t matter anymore. The beast is breaking and shaking the ground we stand on. I will run on adrenaline for the next 24 hours… or however long the swell sticks around for. To me, this is a #HeavyMission. It’s more than just a feeling. It’s a burst of life that pulses through my body, a reality check that humbles in so many waves. Bring on the next mission. I’m waiting.
Keep up with Jayce’s wild ride by following him on Instagram.
