It’s just not big wave surfing without sketchy wipeouts. This is how life works, and it’s what separates the people who actually surf a place like Mavericks from the mortals. It’s why we use the term “waves of consequence.” It’s why you get bubble guts, regardless of your ability level, every time you’re about to paddle into conditions that are going to push your limits. For these people, those limits just happen to be reached charging one of the heaviest waves on the West Coast (and the world).
As far as this winter was concerned there really were no limits. El Niño meant XXL swell after XXL swell lit up Jaws, Waimea, Mavs, you name it. We saw some incredible rides and witnessed history in the making, completely resetting the boundaries of “what’s possible.” But sticking a shaky take off, making it safely to the shoulder or getting spat out of a massive barrel are just the end prize of one gnarly seconds-long journey. Nobody is going to make it out of every wave nice and dry. And this definitely doesn’t change when the stakes are raised. So if you really want to be humbled take some time to appreciate some of the most brutal beatings handed out at Mavs this winter. That’s an El Niño worth remembering.
