Medina made the list. But which side is he on? Photo: ISA
The story of surfing is a rich tapestry. An unbroken narrative winding its way from the days of being the sport of kings to this very moment. There were dark days and light, triumphs and mistakes, lessons learned. Though, depending on which historians you ask, those moments may all fall at different times.
Like any story, surfing has its protagonists and antagonists to match them. A cast of characters that, for whatever reason, surf culture writ large has decided to root for or against. Those reputations aren’t always strictly based in reality, but rather created by media, and even fans. In fact, some of them turn out to be more fiction than truth.
So, without further ado, here are five of the perceived heroes and five of the perceived villains of surfing, in no particular order.
HEROES
The Duke, circa 1910-1915. Photo: Malama Pono Ltd.
Duke Kahanamoku
There is perhaps no greater icon in the history of surfing than the Duke. Known as the father of modern surfing, he was the first international ambassador of the sport. The reason you’re reading this article at all is likely a direct result of his efforts. As if that wasn’t enough, he also shattered a few swimming records in his time winning three Olympic golds and two silvers, appeared in feature films, and served as sheriff of Honolulu. Surfing’s first hero still remains one of its best.
Rob Machado, looking exactly how you would expect the ambassador of good vibes to look.
Rob Machado
Thanks to the likes of Jeff Spicoli, surfers have a reputation for being easygoing free spirits. Truth be told, though, surf culture can be a little more hit and miss when it comes to actually spreading good vibes. On the other hand, we have surfers like Rob Machado who prove that one doesn’t need to act like War Child in Point Break to tear up a wave on the regular. For example, look no further than the iconic high five Rob gave Kelly Slater in the middle of a heat at the 1995 Pipe Masters.
The legend of Tom Curren has only grown through the decades. Photos: Matt George
Tom Curren
In the world of surfing, Tom Curren is a figure that is spoken of in the hushed tones reserved for a figure of legend. His accomplishments are numerous – 33 tour wins and three world titles – but Curren’s appeal goes far deeper than just competitive prowess. The man himself is an enigma, mostly eschewing interviews in favor of expressing himself through an elusive mix of style and power in the water. He’s your favorite surfer’s favorite surfer, and probably yours, too.
Rell Sunn
If Duke was the father of modern surfing, then Rell is its mother. Often surfing under the Duke’s tutelage, she earned the moniker “The Queen of Makaha” by taming the fierce Hawaiian break and entering surf competitions in an era before women’s competitive surfing even existed. Later in her career, she became a hero in a very literal sense, as Hawaii’s fist female lifeguard.
Say what you will, but he is the GOAT. Photo: WSL
Kelly Slater
He really needs no introduction. The fact that you can say “The GOAT” and any surfer will know who you’re talking about says enough. Outside of the surfing community, he’s one of the few wave riders to actually become a household name. Though he may have dipped a toe in villainy over the years (see: disrupting the surfboard industry, becoming a wave pool pioneer, prolific social media commenting), it’s hard to argue with his success. And his impact on the pursuit.
VILLAINS
Hero to some, villain to others. But without a doubt, Miki Dora marched to the beat of his own drum.
Miki Dora
Surfing’s enfant terrible was more than just a merry prankster. He is beloved by many for his puckish antics – like entering the 1967 Malibu Invitational and mooning the judges in the semifinal. On the other hand, his antics were often less anarchist than fascist, such as spray painting swastikas on boards and loudly expressing a profoundly racist worldview. Nat Young once said of “Da Cat” that “Dora’s take is push the black man under. He’s a supreme racist, always has been. When I was younger, I believed it was all just in mirth, that he was just jivin’ it all; but no, he believes absolutely in white supremacy.”
Sometimes we almost miss the ELO show. Photo: Dave Weldon
Erik Logan
When the former President of the Oprah Winfrey Network was hired as the CEO of the World Surf League, surfers’ eyebrows raised around the world. Those eyebrows soared even higher at the revelation that Erik Logan was also an adult learner who didn’t start surfing until the age of 41. That skepticism was then met with a brief but memorable reign. The man who became known as ELO loved to put himself in the spotlight and the core lords who already bristled at his lack of surfing bona fides hated him even more for it. Then, with no warning or explanation, he unceremoniously left the organization – and to this day we still don’t know why.
Eddie Rothman may be the face of localism.
Eddie Rothman
You don’t start one of the most notorious surf gangs without making a few enemies. Eddie Rothman made a name for himself as the co-founder of Da Hui, ostensibly a water patrol for surf contests that became known for their intimidation tactics and enforcement of harsh aquatic “justice.” Since then, they’ve had somewhat of a rebrand as a clothing company and stewards of the Da Hui Backdoor shootout competition, but the reputation of “Fast Eddie” remains.
How could you hate that face? Photo: Thiago Diz//WSL
Gabriel Medina
As we mentioned above, to be a villain is as much about perception as it is reality. Many reputations aren’t earned, so much as thrust upon them by the public for reasons totally outside of one’s control. Such is the case with Gabriel Medina, who has attracted widespread hatred from surf fans despite, or perhaps because of, his absolute dominance in competition. Detractors have called him rude, unsportsmanlike, or an outright cheater. To know him is to know that all those accusations are tenuous at best, but the one thing we know for sure is that Medina is one of the greatest surfers of all time, haters be damned.
If only he navigated social media with as much grace as he does a longboard. Photo: WSL
Joel Tudor
Some shy away from confrontation, others crave it. Honestly, Joel Tudor’s online dustups are largely harmless, but boy does he sure love to start shit. The man’s beefs are many, but the targets are familiar: softening surf culture, the WSL (which earned him the dubious honor of being the first reigning champion to get suspended by the organization), leash users, soft-tops, and many more.
