Greg Long is one of the best big wave surfers on the planet. He’s one of the leaders of the big wave crew that helped turn it from a few off-their-rocker hellmen to a group of organized, talented, and above all, calculated risk-takers, challenging themselves in a way that few before them had ever done.
Greg’s motivations to surf the waves he does are something that everyone should hear. They’re relevant to so much more than surfing. The act of riding waves becomes a metaphor for facing everyday challenges, and his head-on attitude paired with a healthy dose of self-curiosity is helping Greg lead the life that he knows he was put here to lead.
