If you hadn’t heard, there’s been a fair amount of swell around Sydney lately. Big, beefy swell with a bit of wind to go with it. But this guy apparently found an exposure around Sydney’s northern beaches that he thought was doable. So he tried to give it a go. But his experience level might not have matched up to the surf he was attempting to ride: he definitely wasn’t aggressive enough while jumping off the rocks or paddling out.
As you can hear in the commentating, he waits too long on the rock slab and mistimes his jump about four or five times as his board gets battered against the rock while he’s dragged across the rough surface with whitewater pushing him back (if he doesn’t have a hole in his wetty he’s one lucky mate). Then once he does get space to paddle out in between sets he flails a bit and gets brutally sent back where he came from. Two things you can learn from this video: big surf must be matched with equally big effort and aggression and Australians call jumping off the rocks into the surf “rock off.” Both important bits of information.
Video: Still Stoked
