“If you had one shot or one opportunity to seize everything you ever wanted in one moment, would you capture it? Or just let it slip?”
The water is 59 degrees, and I’m shaking with nervous energy. After 42 days of waiting since I got the invite, a three-hour drive through shit-smelling pastures, and a sleepless night in a hotel, here I am. In Lemoore, California. Inside the doors of the Surf Ranch. I’m bobbing in the water at Kelly Slater Wave Co. at pole number 32 about to have a come-to-Jesus moment.
His palms are sweaty, knees weak, arms are heavy
There’s vomit on his sweater already, mom’s spaghetti