The Inertia

This was one of the most epic days of my life. It was nowhere near Nazaré’s biggest day and nowhere near my best camera work (I had to shoot this all on my iPhone). I was bouncing all over the place with my camera, plus my entire vocabulary shrunk down to “Wow,” “Holy Crap,” “Oh my god,” and “LOOK AT THAT.”

Toby Cunningham and I set out on a super-busy day with at least 10 to 12 jet skis in the water. I wanted to get as close as I could to the action and Toby was there to keep us out of harm’s way as well as out of the way of any surfers or safety crews. I felt so alive riding amongst these 20 to 30-foot waves. I’ve never been in such large surf before and I gained a whole new level of respect for the people who ride these giants.

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