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I feel for the surfers who have to keep the corporate wankers happy. I’m a bit bummed but in some way happy this wave didn’t make the top 5 nominees for @wsl @wslbigwave awards. After surfer mag didn’t put this wave in their top 5 for barrels of the year beaten by 3 foot skeleton bay waves and a few others (if had the chance I wouldn’t swap all 5 waves chosen in surfer awards for this one haha) I knew there was no way this wave would make the top 5 big wave award nominations because of corporate bull shit! Whats the surf industry going to get out of Laurie Towner. The reason I’m some what happy is because all my life I though it would be amazing to have a ride of the year next to my name. I now know it’s a meaningless award chosen by kooks with no idea who play the cards of surfers careers. Winning awards would be in some big wave surfers contracts, it use to be in mine and it truely sucks for the surfers trying to make a career out of riding big waves, lucky for me it means nothing now. Although the money would of been nice if I made the top 5 it reassures me I want nothing to do with winning awards, I will never enter a wave again if I’m to ride another bomb, which I will. This wave is MY ride of the year, maybe my ride of my life and no one can take that from me. Maybe I’m being biased you tell me? I wouldn’t change this wave for anyone else’s wave this year if had the chance even if you were to give me 50g on top, there is no better feeling than to successfully paddle a big scary draining wave safely to the channel. To all the up and coming big wave surfers Fuck the big wave awards, do it for yourself no one else! Sorry If I’m being negative Im not the only one who feels a little hard done by in this years nomination there is a hand full of terrible decisions. I just want what’s best for the future of young big wave surfers and this needs to be fixed! honestly @wsl get tow waves out of ride of the year! You shouldnt be helped by a jet ski it’s also hard to think an unmade wave can be ride of the year. Well @granttwigbaker wave might be an exception haha Also sorry for the novel 😬

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One of the most beautifully-kooky moments of my life occurred in the picturesque Snowy Mountains of Australia at Perisher Resort. I was working on a film project, running the GoPro up and down the gum tree-lined slopes of Perisher Terrain Park built by the man, Charles Beckinsale. While helping our camera guy, I watched every big name snowboarder and skier worth his or her salt chuck themselves off the giant kickers.

Now, I love working on films, but after a while, sitting around gets old. I’d watched countless people send – clearing each jump with ease, throwing all sorts of trick variations. I knew I could make the gap, and maybe pull my signature, spread eagle crotch grab. I wanted it. After all that watching in the beating spring sun, I was like, “Fuck it.” I took off down the slope towards the first hit. But I’d missed an important detail which quickly became apparent: with all the travel, I’d forgotten about wax.

In the spring conditions, I was moving painfully slow. I launched, and tucked, knowing the spread-crotch wasn’t in the bag. I thought I’d made the transition but instead, slammed into the knuckle and exploded. Shit was everywhere. Hat and goggles downhill of my poles. A single glove, lay at the bottom near the flats. I picked myself up and moved on. What else could I do? But I guarantee you one thing: if I’d had video of the incident, I’d have posted it on my meager social account for laughs. I try to be open (see honest) about stuff that pisses me off or embarrasses me or makes me sad.


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You ready to do it for your Country ? or is your Country that is trying to be the best Country in the world. That is “always” fighting for human rights, but suddenly ignores the facts for fake gold medals and a three week party that causes huge nature crimes and uses your tax money to build towns and stadiums that turns into ghost towns 🤔 #sportrolemodels #biggerthansport Only 22.000 families was affected by human rights at the last Olympic Games and again the nature crimes was huge. The other thing that really surprises me, is how athletes, nations and companies bends over and get dictated by this group of older corrupt Men that don’t bring anything to the table. Maybe this games brought nations closer back in the day, but now it builds borders, I think. I come from a sport where nationalism has never been a thing, so it’s funny to see some of my team mates try to hide under the umbrella “I’m doing it for my country”, while sport companies across the world has done everything for them. And they pay taxes in another country where they live. I haven’t even mention anything about IOC’s Sports politics .. I don’t think it’s an bad idea to bring all Sports together for a party, but why break all this important things that affect people and the world while doing it. I also think that not all the best guys get to go, and that is because the more nations that are involved the more profit IOC makes. There is solutions and people know’s really old news #proudolympian #yourebiggerthanthis

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That’s why I applauded Laurie Towner’s honesty the other day on social media when the man – who’s one of the best big wave carpenters we know – roasted the WSL for leaving him and others out of the Big Wave Awards. “All my life I thought it would be amazing to have a ride of the year next to my name,” he wrote. “I now know it’s a meaningless award chosen by kooks.”

He might not be exactly right, but that’s not the point. At least there was real emotion there. Something you could grab onto and be pissed about for him – or even pissed at him. But damn if you didn’t respect his opinion. And I wish more surf and mountain athletes would follow his example.


As someone who covers these freeride geniuses, who in this day and age have hired all kinds of PR agents and marketing gurus to safeguard their brands, I’ve grown fatigued by this kind of post: “Well, contest didn’t quite go as I expected, but learned so much about myself and my sport. Thanks again #GoldCoast.” What? Is that all we get? No, no, no, no. What I want is this: “Gotta say, judges screwed me this go around. My mum could have scored a better heat and she doesn’t even surf. Did ya’ll see that last turn? Judges missed it. And I’m sick of meat pies. F*** this place. Out.” How much more interesting would that be? Or, “Can’t believe FIS is still testing for marijuana. Idiots booted me out of the contest cause I smoked a doober last week. Step into the modern age.” Or even the non-comp post – mountain peak, sitting majestically on its own with a caption like, “#Blessed.” What about, “This beast completely destroyed me today. #luckytobealive.”

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This winter it was difficult for me to be home watching warm weather and fun waves online, especially towards the end of my two months there. It was hard to get motivated and feel like i was actually bettering myself especially not having the validation of the World Championship Tour to rely on to make me feel legit in this sport. I found it SO annoying when people would post about the opposite of what i had in front of me at times. I know I’ve probably placed myself in that same position to many people and it sucks. I now understand that missing out feeling or sense of constant comparison you easily get from instagram and how paralyzing it is sometimes to self growth. I hope you guys know i share glimpses of my adventures and dont live a perfect life what so ever. Most often times im battling my own head and all the noisy mess its filled with while just trying to surround myself with natures beauty and great people because that perspective speaks the most truth in life to me. Sorry if ive ever seemed prouder, better, privileged, arrogant, or straight up into myself. Im realizing after those two months if im going to post i hope it inspires you to chase a life doing whatever it is that makes you happy and that these are my steps to just that. This photo was taken yesterday here on the central coast of Australia. Didnt know the photographer @rileyedwardsphoto but so stoked he was in the spot and got me fired up to do my job better than ever and document the moments of me livin not posing. Even though i love a good 🤳🏼 and am a bit of a show pony low key style 😂😘

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Yeah, that would be great, especially considering most every quote we get from athletes these days is carefully curated by some publicist. At least give us a heaping bowl of reality on social media.


Now, don’t get me wrong, I don’t necessarily need to hear about some messed up night a snowboarder or surfer or skier had where everything went wrong and they ended up hurling bits and pieces into the dive bar trash can before waking up God knows where (or maybe we do?). And at a certain point, too much info can turn into whining. Maybe that much honesty is too much, but gettin’ crazy on social ain’t all bad (see Antonio Brown, former Steeler, current Raider. Man got paid). Terje Haakonsen has been known to go off (great follow). So has Joel Tudor (another solid follow). Kelly Slater always seems to have something to say (and interacts with his audience). I might not even like what these influencers go on about. Sometimes they actually piss me off (Haakonsen famously called journalists cowards). But at least I can learn something. Anything.

All I want is a little reality in my life when it comes to our favorite surf and mountain pros. A little, “Hey, I’m having a shitty day. Wanna’ hear about it?” Because they’re humans too. But sometimes, when looking through the lens of social media, it just doesn’t feel like it.


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