It’s really easy to call big wave surfers crazy. In fact, it’s kind of our go to claim for disregarding all athletes that do anything to the extreme. For some reason Shane McConkey comes to mind first. He’s one of many people that paid the price for chasing something most wouldn’t give a second thought to, let alone do day after day after day. Why risk it? Especially if in the end it’s just a selfish pursuit – rolling the dice on life for your own rush?
Chris Bertish wouldn’t agree with that sentiment. He knows that if we are to believe anything is possible then somebody should take a step forward and prove it. He’d tell us part of achieving is 100% self belief. And when he goes out and walks the walk it’s hard to imagine there’s nobody on the planet who doesn’t take at least a tiny bit of inspiration from that. So maybe all those hellmen towing into salty freight trains with teeth or the folks ski BASEjumping like they’re in a Bond film aren’t the crazy ones after all. Maybe it’s those of us who, selfishly, aren’t chasing our own little bit of crazy.
