In New England, summer is a nice break from the chilly and sometimes downright brutal days between November and April. It’s nice to shed the 5/4 for a pair of boardshorts and a rashguard, although the thrill of summer warmth wears off pretty quick once we get a few weeks of “Lake Atlantic” surf.
After those dog days of summer, hurricane season is highly-anticipated. Even though this year was brimming with hurricane activity for a short while, the winds and storm paths didn’t quite come together for New England this year. So finally, after all the inactivity, some forecast models hinted at a strong low-pressure system coming off the Outer Banks and lifting north to give us a shot of swell in New England.
The wind forecasts looked dodgy at best the day before the swell was set to reach our beaches — one of those “cross your fingers and hope for the best” type of swells. With 40-55mph side-shore winds predicted, we headed out in search of something where the ocean didn’t look like a conveyor belt that could pull an entire lineup down the coast. We managed to find some cleaner waves near dark as the front began to pass and the wind bent offshore just enough. The Atlantic was unquestionably filled with solid swell, with the buoys reaching up to 18-feet plus. With so much swell in the water most exposed beaches were maxed out.
It’s an incredible sight to see the Atlantic alive and angry again.