You can learn more than you think from this. Photo: Mark Tipple
Wipeouts and hold-downs are inevitable in surfing. It doesn’t matter if you are an 11-time ASP champion or local kid in the lineup – they’re going to happen. The ocean, like many things, in nature, is unpredictable. But you can prepare yourself for those wipeouts, both in the water and in life.
1. Relax. When you feel like you are literally being pulled apart, this might be the hardest thing to do. Panicking is the first reaction, which is a sure fire way to make things worse. A trick I use is counting in my head while under water. By doing this, you’ll realize what feels like an eternity underwater has really only been a few short seconds. Focusing on something other than the situation will help you conserve oxygen so you can focus on finding the surface. If you can’t figure out which way is up, find your leash on your ankle and use it to wrangle your board. Remember, it floats (hallelujah!).
In life, you have probably found yourself in a situation where you acted purely out of emotion. How’d it turn out? We’ve all been there: blowing up in anger and bogging ourselves down with the stress of not being in control. Such responses nearly always end in regret. But we can control our attitude when everything feels completely out of our control. By recognizing this, we can focus the present moment, find center, and move forward with a healthier peace of mind. By reflecting and rethinking our actions, next time we can respond with more patience.
2. Train: Physical training will do wonders for your surfing ability. It can prevent injury when the unexpected happens. Some people take it to the extreme, running 5k’s underwater (seriously it’s true. Read the article here.) However, we don’t all have access to these training resources.
Swimming is great training for paddle strength, endurance, and breathing. Going on consistent swims improves your lung capacity, and allows your lungs to become better accustomed to delivering oxygen to your muscles and heart. If you want a challenge, try hypoxic swim training, breathing every three, five, or seven strokes, depending on your comfort level. Since I have incorporated swim workouts into my week, it’s been easier to hold my breath during an underwater pounding. I also recommend yoga. Finding ways to breath rhythmically when your body is physically challenged improves lung capacity and allows the mind to disengage during times of stress. Yoga also provides added flexibility, core strength, and balance, all of which work to prevent injury.
Training in life may look a little different. Physical training and eating right provides you with a healthier lifestyle, but training your mind is equally important. Knowledge is power. Engage your mind. Your brain is a muscle and also needs to be worked out. So find time to read good books and articles, keep up to date on current events, and challenge yourself to write creatively and reflectively on the daily things you observe. By finding innovative ways to navigate life’s circumstances you can find an appreciation for its beauty.
3. Regroup. Don’t let a good rattling retire you from the sport altogether. If you need to take a moment to refocus, there is no shame in doing so. Know your limitations and skill level – it is ok to be real with yourself and call it quits after a few brutal beatings. It’s also not worth the risk of getting seriously hurt. I just had such an experience where I decided to surf an unfamiliar break by myself and was pounded by the first two eight-foot sets, and I found myself needing to paddle in to refocus. Once I got the psych out of me, the next paddle out was easier, and it turned into a fun session.
There will always be another day and other waves. You may remember big wave charger Greg Long taking a hiatus after a horrific wipeout at Cortes bank. He literally had to be resurrected on the boat. A bit of an extreme example I know, but there is no shame in giving yourself a break after a fall. Long returned a few years later to that same spot for an epic redemption session. I encourage you to watch the video, the guy charges. I also recommend watching his take on his comeback experience.
Bottom line, we learn from the beatings we take in the ocean. Each one helps improve our surfing. They let us examine our wave choice, timing on a maneuver, reading a section. All of those are things we can apply to our next ride.
Like the ocean, life is full of unknowns. Relationships, careers, family and finances can take sudden twists and turns. Life happens, and not always in the way we anticipate. The more we learn from the beautiful chaos, the stronger we become next time conditions get rough. Give yourself a break when you fall, take time to regroup and get back out there. Embrace the opportunity to learn and grow stronger in all circumstances. And of course, do what you love. Your soul will be better for it, and your life more at peace.
