I have had saltwater running through my veins from day one. My earliest childhood memories consist of playing at the water’s edge, mesmerized as I watched the waves roll back and forth along the shore. To this day, the ocean has shaped nearly every aspect of my life. It has been my greatest teacher, taking me on a course of adventure beyond my wildest imagination, while giving me a path to explore my greatest physical and mental capabilities, through my passion for riding big waves.
On a rainy night in the Santa Cruz mountains last winter, I got to talking with close friend and cinematographer Patrick Trefz, about my life of pursuing and riding big waves. The conversation was recorded and became the foundation of “Into The Mind,” a five-minute film that addresses the most common questions I receive – how did I start? Why do I do it? Do I feel fear? That conversation included the most pertinent life lessons the ocean has bestowed upon me.
The greatest lesson has been coming to understand that every moment of our journey is sacred, as is our Earth and it’s resources. Life is a miracle and a gift and it is our task to recognize and celebrate the joy and wonder that is available to each of us in our daily lives. It is our duty to look after our planet and its awe-inspiring resources to help ensure that those resources will we be here for future generations to enjoy, just as we have. Through my years in the surfing community, I have been blessed to find and work with like-minded individuals and groups who are committed to nurturing positive change on the planet and dedicating themselves to preserving the joy we surfers know when we stand on the shore and feel the majesty of nature. Among the most prominent of these groups is the Save The Waves Coalition.
On November 7, the short film “Into the Mind” will premiere at the Save The Waves Film Festival in San Diego, at Birds Surf Shed. All proceeds will benefit Save the Waves Coalition and their programs, which work diligently to protect and preserve the coastal environment with an emphasis directly on the many surf zones we cherish.
Please join us at the festival. Celebrate the joy!