Surfing’s great, ain’t it? There’s no one way to do it. As long as it makes you happy and you’re playing by the appropriate rules — you know, the ones about keeping others around you safe and showing respect and all that — then you’re doing it right. Longboard, shortboard, two fins, three fins, one fin, no fins.
You’ve seen stories with similar outlines to this one featuring Reef Heazlewood and Ivy Thomas: the juxtaposing surfers who take two diverging approaches to the same pursuit.
Heazlewood is one of the most creative aerial specialists in the game. He’s an up and coming competitor who’s knocking on the door of the CT but until this year, he’d never competed in an elite tour event. Thomas, on the other hand, is a female longboarder with a much more relaxed style in the water — which is kind of ironic considering the way she describes her own demeanor. For a lady who rides logs in a region of the world dominated by men and high-performance surfing, she’s had to make a path for herself with some grit.
“It was hard when I first started surfing and there were no girls out,” she says. “They hassle so bad out here. I’m pretty fiesty so that helps a lot…It’s intimidating but it’s so worth it.”
Watch this and you’ll form a whole new appreciation for this thing that we do because it’s a good reminder that there’s no one way to get hooked on riding waves.