Jamie O’Brien is fiending to get back to surfing. Despite being grounded due to a medical procedure, he briefly ventured back out into the water in his latest YouTube video.
Before the action, JOB provided a quick update on his eye. Earlier this summer, he underwent surgery on a pterygium. Also known as surfer’s eye, the condition is a benign, fleshy growth that starts on the white part of the eye and grows towards the center. Jamie’s case was pretty advanced (unsurprising, given he makes a living staring into the sun from the Pipeline lineup) and recovery from the procedure was supposed to keep him out of the water for months.
However, as he explained in this latest video, the recovery is going well, but with the caveat that his other eye will probably soon also have to go under the knife. So he decided to test his luck.
‘I heard the the Waimea River is about to open,’ he explained. ‘I thought maybe that we could go down there and if I don’t get my eye wet, I could go rip a couple waves. Because I’m fiending for a little surf session and I figure that would be the perfect thing to do. Not sure if the doctor’s okay with that, but we got a big doctor’s appointment coming up this week. So fingers crossed that we’ll be surfing Pipeline really soon.’
With that, JOB and company opened up the river and went to work carving up a classic standing wave session. Check out the full video below.
