There’s something hypnotizing about watching the world’s best pop up to their feet in slow motion. For one, it’s a part of every professional surfer’s repertoire that flies under the radar. That’s because, well, if they weren’t any good at getting to their feet, they wouldn’t be pro surfers.
Second, though, a quick look around most lineups would suggest that plenty of surfers lack grace when performing the most fundamental of fundamental acts. Some men over sixty have even been known to grunt while they strain to an upright position.
Anyway, several months ago photographer Brent Rose was on assignment at the Founders’ Cup for Deadspin. In between taking stills of the best in the world, and probably waiting in long lines for water, Rose found the time to gather some clips of the pros in slow motion. As he explains, the way each surfer pops to their feet has always been of interest to him. Perhaps he grunts and strains. Either way, there is something fascinating about this little compilation: namely, the different ways each surfer gets to their feet.
Jordy Smith is a back-foot-first planter. Kelly kicks, presses down on his nose, and lifts. John John keeps his front knee high, kicking himself in the chest. And Carissa also back-foot stomps.
There’s some deeper analysis hidden in there about each surfer maximizing the advantages of their respective body types – Jordy’s height, Kelly’s lack thereof, etc. – but I digress.
What’s key though is that while there are certainly wrong ways to pop up, everyone has the right way that works for them, even the world’s best.
