Surfer/Musician/Optimist/Nuturer of Nature

The Inertia

If you are wondering what Julune means, it arrived from a dyslexic moment I had while talking about my two favorite months, June and July. The word Julune sparked my desire to make a short film about a dream I’ve had since I was a child: going to Indonesia and getting the best barrels of my life. However, I promised myself I wouldn’t live this dream until I felt ready, so that the first time I went, I didn’t feel like a total rookie. This past June and July, I set out to make this Indo dream a reality.  This dream, however, was much more encompassing than I had imagined; my journey would teach me new life lessons.

It was the first time traveling alone in a developing country and it may be be my last. As a woman, traveling with surf and electronic equipment, I learned I was a vulnerable target to those who didn’t share the same moral code as I did. In the course of a month and a half, I learned a several things. I got robbed twice, discovered that FindMyMac can do miracles, the police like to make money off you on top of you getting ripped off, and, most importantly, that learned that I am still very much learning the ropes to foreign travel. I recommend traveling with friends. Adventure together. Together is better.

When it came to surfing, I did my best to keep my eyes wide open – to play it safe and to always ask my angels for protection. Waking up to the sound of an anchor every morning for two weeks in the Mentawais was like music to my ears. This was it. This is what I had been waiting for my whole life.  I was on a boat trip in Indo, pinching myself.  I was aware that time would fly by, so tried my hardest to stay present. I wanted to be thankful and relish every single moment. I forced myself to use calculated risk, avoid the reef, use intuition, and allow time to slow down while pushing myself in the surf.

To see, in person, the waves I’ve been watching in surf flicks my whole life took me by surprise.  They were much more daunting and powerful than I had envisioned.  The reef was sharp, shallow, and in charge always. Yet, the waves seemed to march through in the most beautiful, manicured fashion. I worked my way deeper into the pocket, and found myself in some of the longest tubes of my life. Weaving inside the barrel has not been  quite as common as I’d like, but I quickly realized that I wanted it to be. My heart was ecstatic every night when I went to sleep. My body was sore and my mind was content as I recalled every moment in my day and how I would do the next differently.

I became aware that my conscious mind was coaching my body through the barrels.  My first big backside tube of the trip, I clearly remember my mind saying as the lip folded over, “Holiness. Is this really what it’s like to get tubed in Indo?! This is too surreal. It’s way heavier than I thought it would be.”  I told myself, “Hold on, you’re going to make it.  You’ve got this. This is amazing!”

Perhaps my greatest lesson I learned throughout my trip is to express the feeling of joy and appreciation in the moment – especially in the moments when you are living your dreams. Harness these feelings. Remember them. Come back to them and utilize them in a positive and productive manner. Because life flies by in the blink of an eye. So make sure you enjoy the blink.


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