Wipeouts are part of surfing. No one’s ever going to escape them, no matter how good they get. But for Kai Lenny, wipeouts are a little worse than they are for the average Joe. That’s because Kai Lenny surfs waves quite a bit bigger than the waves that the average Joe surfs, and as wave size goes up, so too do the consequences. Take, for example, the wipeout you see above. “This wipeout gave me a terrible concussion,” Kai said, “but it was worth it for the barrels.”
Learn to push yourself, keep calm, and manage fear in heavy surf with Mark Healey’s Guide to Heavy Water.
