A session in the Keiki shore break is just asking to snap a board or five right in half. But of course, when you have a full quiver, a direct line to Jon Pyzel, and the ability to order 29 — scratch that, 30 — surfboards from the guy making them, thumping around in one of the world’s heaviest shore breaks is more like winter conditioning than anything else.
You could also take Koa Rothman’s sage advice: Just make every wave and you don’t have to worry about breaking boards.
“It’s like a makeable, surfable shorebreak,” he says about the North Shore’s infamous little slab. “If Hawaii had a Wedge like Newport, this would be it.”