“Not deep enough… I need to get a lot deeper.” How many times have you felt the same way? I’m talking about getting barreled, of course. Apparently it’s the same for legends as well, and when it comes to legends of surf film, there is none as hallowed as visionary and innovator George Greenough.
Let’s be serious: the visuals he pulled ashore from out in the lineup were not only amazing for the time, but are iconic even today — the sort of aesthetic that the modern greats struggle to emulate even with all the new-fangled gear available to them. In my head, George is sitting comfortably on a porch or lanai somewhere thinking, GoPros are for pussies.