“Not deep enough… I need to get a lot deeper.” How many times have you felt the same way? I’m talking about getting barreled, of course. Apparently it’s the same for legends as well, and when it comes to legends of surf film, there is none as hallowed as visionary and innovator George Greenough.
Let’s be serious: the visuals he pulled ashore from out in the lineup were not only amazing for the time, but are iconic even today — the sort of aesthetic that the modern greats struggle to emulate even with all the new-fangled gear available to them. In my head, George is sitting comfortably on a porch or lanai somewhere thinking, GoPros are for pussies.
Anyway, it is awesome to hear him talk so technically and honestly about the clips edited together here. It’d be like sitting down with Gerry Lopez and having him walk you through his best (or lost) footage from Pipe.
One of the gnarliest parts of all this is that, according to George, he had 17 pounds of equipment on his back. 17 POUNDS!