It always sounds like a good idea to go surf there. You’re driving up PCH, enjoying the beautiful coast line. You come around the bend and get your first glimpse at it. That’s when it gets a little hairy. You never look at the waves first, you look at the crowd. You do this because it’s inevitable, and they’re always there. They’re even there at three in the morning — trust me I’ve tried surfing in the middle of the night only to find there were at least 50 other people with the same idea. A part of you dies a little inside. Then, all of a sudden, you see a perfect five wave set. You watch at least 10 of the 20 people who caught them eat it. So you suck it up and go out there.
Because this is the thing — that wave is perfect. It’s annoyingly perfect. In a way, this video is my ‘Ode’ to Malibu. A perfect little wave here and there interlaced with moments of barbaric chaos in the lineup.