Recently, I had the great fortune to have been invited to my friend’s surf camp in the Mentawais, to work as a surf guide last season. From here on, this story is not going to be about the epic waves I scored or how amazing the experience was. Although we did get our epic days and the experience was something I will cherish always, what I really want to talk about is feelings. Let’s strip the ego down, let’s shed our robe of coolness and stand naked and vulnerable, because what is more “gnarly” than that?
Depressed, anxious, scared, and numb. There I was, living at an amazing surf camp in the Mentawais. I surfed every day at epic spots with cool people from around the world and I was feeling depressed, anxious, scared, and numb. Not all the time, mind you – I had good days, mostly, but these feelings were there with me, at times, for the duration of my stay.