I went down to this area last year but just brought my 35mm rangefinder since I heard it can get sketchy. I didn’t really get that vibe, and the whole time I wished I had my real setup.
We planned to stay in some cabanas half the time and camp the other half, but the second night a rat ran across my back and I decided the tent suited me better. There were four of us, a shitty rental car, and a dirt bike. Beforehand, I told myself I would dedicate half of my time to shooting since I always end up surfing most of the trip even if I bring my gear. I think I pulled it off for the first time. We didn’t get the most perfect waves ever but had three or four sessions to ourselves at some of the best sand pointbreaks ever. Whenever it did get crowded, we went to the second spot. All we had to do was a 30 minute rock walk and we never saw another surfer.
We all have jobs and are just average surfers, but my intention was just to capture the feel of adventure and excitement that you get on a good surf trip. I wanted it to be different from the average web surf clip. Hopefully people get stoked on that even though I did end it with a sunset. It was just so damn pretty.
