Remember when Mick Fanning retired, and everyone was sad? Memorializing his time as an Australian champion? They were probably sad because they’d rather be doing this: finding perfect, unsurfed waves.
That seems way preferable to endlessly climbing and falling in rankings while wearing spandex jerseys with judges telling you that you’re not good enough every day of your life. Yeah, this seems better. Glad you’re doing okay, Mick. Someone’s gotta find and surf these perfect waves. Might as well be you!
