If Kleiser can round up enough fans, we might just see the next chapter of Hollywood’s most memorable surf movie.

“Ok, brada. The reef starts here and goes to about there. And when the wave breaks here don’t be here. Or you’re gonna get drilled.”


The Inertia

The jungle is raw. It allows for no margin of error. The reef is raw. It allows for no margin of error. There is no bullshit here. Everything weak is consumed. Everything unused is consumed. Everything unaware is punished. Destroyed.

A constant state of awareness is required to exist here. To survive. In the jungle, there are no heroes, only survivors. The reef demands patience. The reef demands total commitment. Hesitation is punished. The reef demands skill or the reef demands skin, or bone, or blood, or life. The reef is not to be trifled with.

The wave is magnificent. The wave is terrifying. The wave will spit you out of an impossible section and continue onwards defying the laws of physics and all you have ever known. Every organism is struggling here. Every organism is thriving here. There is no room for excess. There is no room for bullshit.

Wedged in between two of the most populated islands in the world, the jungle at G-land is almost absent of all human inhabitants. The monkeys struggle to take it back; the camps struggle to etch out  basic human existence. Here is a modern-day, living, ancient ruin.

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The workers sweep the leaves on the ground clean daily. The leaves return each day to be swept once more. The ants are a never-ending river of crawling, biting, life. They are everywhere. They are always on you. You forget about them after a few days.

The jungle demands patience. It demands respect. It despises complacency. There is no future. There is no past. There is only the present moment. To take one’s mind from the present, whether on land or in the water opens the door to failure. Failure pays a high price here.

The jungle is raw, it allows for no margin of error. The reef is raw, it allows for no margin of error. There is no bullshit here.

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