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The Inertia

On December 8, Nazaré did what Nazaré does best: it got gigantic. You’ve probably already seen a handful of clips from the swell — Andrew Cotton’s close call and this little ditty, to name a few — but there’s no way you’re tired of it just yet. The day was a serious one. Wild and wooly, massive and extraordinarily dangerous, Nazaré is not a place for a surfer who strictly enjoys mellow, chest high point breaks. It’s more for a surfer who likes to tempt fate. A surfer who chases adrenaline like a greyhound chasing a rabbit.

Tim Bonython is a man who really likes documenting enormous waves, so it makes sense that Nazaré is kind of a second home for him. When he saw that a very big swell was pointed towards that famous deep-water canyon, he booked a flight and got there as fast as he could. We’re glad he did, because he got a lot of incredible footage, including Lucas Fink skimboarding what very well could be one of the biggest waves ever caught on a skimboard.

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