The Inertia

About nine months ago, Noah Hill broke his femur doing an air on the North Shore. It was really bad. A metal rod was put into his quad with bolts all around the break to support it. The doctors told him that he’d be out of the water for around six months and it wouldn’t fully heal for a year.

Noah is probably the most driven kid I have ever known. Whenever I stay with him in Maui or when he stays with me (in Venice), he’s the guy who wants to surf nonstop, which usually equates to four sessions a day. Surfing is his life, so when he broke his leg his passion and drive to get back were evident. Every time I talked to him or snap chatted him he was in physical therapy, stretching his leg or exercising it in some way. Even after the doctors eventually said he’d be back in the water in six months, it took him only three.

This trip was his first “filming” trip since breaking that leg, which is why we gave it the title “Noah Hill Un-Breaks Leg.” We arrived at our camp in Nicaragua around midnight and the first thing Noah said was, “Set your alarm for 5:30 a.m.” When I woke up the next morning, he’d already been up doing stretches and Wave-Ki for a while. And this was pretty much the pattern for the entire trip: surf, eat breakfast, surf, eat lunch, surf, swim, surf, eat dinner, and usually surf again for good measure. Noah was on it every chance he could, even if it was blasting on shore or way too big for any of the spots.

Editor’s Note: You can follow more of Noah’s adventures on Instagram here and the author here.


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