Editor’s Note: There are a few things that completely terrify me in this world. Brown Recluse spiders, the Saw movies, waking up in a bathtub filled with ice minus a vital organ… things like that. But, the waves that Jaws produced today? They’re on a whole different level of terrifying, to me.
I think I could take the tiny little brown spider if I had to. I’d also like to think I could outsmart that silly clown puppet guy in Saw. However, I don’t really think there’s too much I could do about hoodlums trying to harvest my kidneys. Whatever. The boys killed it today in good fashion. Enjoy every terrifying second of this one.
Pe’ahi 2/11/16: I awoke at about 4am, showered, and arrived at Pe’ahi at about 5am. I sat and watched the stars from the quiet cliff, drinking coffee, and listening to the swell pulse. Upon first light, the swell was still holding decent waves (15-20+ feet) and the winds were light. Highlights of the day were Shane Dorian getting a couple bombs, Seth Moniz charging, and Tyler Larronde’s wipeout where he punched a solid hole through his board with his leg.
By about 11am the winds had picked up and the swell had started to fade away. The pack of 20+ surfers slowly shrank to eight, and in similar fashion, the cliff proceeded to empty out, as well. I shot the whole session with a Canon 7D and Sigma 150-600mm lens.