I turn 40 in a couple of weeks, and I’m fizzing at how freakin’ good it is to be a surfer. I live in such a wave rich area. We’ve got a ton of reefs, and basically every nook and cranny lights up depending on the conditions. I guess I’m particularly stoked right now because we’ve just had the best autumn in well over 10 years, and it looks like winter is going to be even better.
I grew up in a suburb on Sydney’s northern beaches and went to Uni, where I earned a couple of degrees. I’ve been in the water and surfing my whole life. My time as a student was wasted for the most part, but I had plenty of adventures – as you do being a surfer with plenty of time. That’s when we really started hitting the south coast a lot. The adventures continued with world travel and all the rest of it. Somehow, there are 10 years of getting over to Hawaii in the midst of it. I haven’t been since we started to have kids six years ago, but that time will come again in the not-too-distant future. I love and I hate Hawaii. It’s been my biggest teacher. I love that even over a just matter of weeks, you’re almost guaranteed some ten-foot plus days.