I can remember when I was around seven being given a surfboard at a friend of my mum’s barbecue. I found this device strange yet appealing, and I knew right then that I had to figure it out somehow. I knew nothing about surfing or surfers. Little did I know of the adventures and life that surfboard would end up providing me.
I’m not a professional surfer, although back in the day after spending every waking moment learning to ride that thing, I ended up competing in a few contests – right up to WQS level, until one day in summer I injured myself and was dry-docked for five months. I had just previously won a contest, and the prize was a Sumatran boat trip to HT’s and all those places. I couldn’t use it, so I swapped it for a Canon EOS 630 and two lenses. So I began to take photos while I healed. I picked up the camera originally to kill time, but I was hooked instantly and I never competed again.
I can recall even when I was really young always being mesmerized by what my mates were doing on a wave as I’d paddle back out – sitting and watching them blow the tail or get barreled. I thought those little would make amazing photos. So there was my solution for the next few months. Fifteen odd years later and I’m still doing it. Funny, yet cool, how things work out.