On Saturday morning I went to check out Palm Beach, and it was out of control, so I went to the inlet and saw my friend get a stand up spitting tube. I knew at that moment I was exactly where I was meant to be.
That was the first big day of the epic swell and it was raw, thick energy like I have never seen in Florida. What unfurled was the biggest, best three days of waves I have ever seen on my doorstep. South Florida is the shit, amen. Saturday was heavier than the previous day. Little did I know that the next day was going to prove to be as good, if not better. Sunday was bigger, with clean thick lines pouring in, attracting a sick crew consisting of Wardo, Cory, Shea and Evan Geiselman, all out there ripping a new one. Wardo was drawing crazy lines in the tube like he was in giant Mundaka. They were all tripping out that they were surfing waves like these in Florida. It was the day of days.