For several reasons beyond our control, life has led many of us on a path to live in places that are not exactly conducive to surfing twice a day. It’s not that we don’t want to live in the tropics, growing our own food, and surfing twice a day in warm, sapphire-blue water. Who wouldn’t? The reality is that work, school, family, significant others, and life, really, often inhibit us from living in makeshift shacks conveniently located right in front of a perfect peeling A-frame that is absolutely firing 90% of the year.
However, our home is our home and we must make the best of the cards we’ve been given. Nick Coxx of New York City understands this notion perfectly, and sums it up quite adequately while describing surfing in his narration– probably without even knowing it. “The waves are gonna crash the way that they’re gonna crash, and you’re just finding a way to become a part of it and survive it.”