Kelly Slater was born in 1972. I guess that makes it a pretty significant point in surf history in itself. But I think it was at least another six months (I think) before the guy was ripping harder than everyone else on the planet, so it’s worth noting other significant moments that shaped the surf world around that time.
“Surfboards went from nine feet to six. There was hope that we would soon be out of Vietnam. The joy of surfing helped ease painful memories of a war an ocean away.”
This film, Five Summer Stories, is a solid throwback to how surf culture was influenced by world events in the early 70’s. Or is it surfing that helped a lucky few escape from a crazy world?
Five Summer Stories from REEF MASTER on Vimeo.
