A Sticky Situation
Now, this isn’t a photo I shot myself, which is the case for the rest of these. But that flipper you see is me swimming for the bottom because let’s face it I am out of position by a long way, not quite as bad as it looks because unlike when you’re surfing I had a few moments to prepare for “what’s next.” It’s the type of situation when preparation is the key to keeping calm and being aware of this little predicament.
A Rogue Wave at Mavericks
If Kerby Brown was a cat, he would be on his third helping of those nine lives. He is a true nut case and just loves waves like these. Yes, that’s him in the lip if you follow the legrope. Reds is one wave I have purposely avoided shooting wide angle at, it breaks on razor sharp reef, and is always shallow. No thanks.
Big Brother, Justin Allport
I wish I had shot this wave better. I could have done a better job of showing the situation Jughead is in here, so I’ll just point out some facts that illustrate what the photo doesn’t. First ever wave, 25km out to sea, 4-5 hours to help, a dry reef (out of the water) 20 yards in front of him, no safety gear (bad planning), and to state the obvious, the left looks better.
Cale Grigson at Bungalows
Cale Grigson is an incredible surfer, making this wave with ease. The only problem for me was a split second after I took this shot I was standing ankle deep on the reef, going over the falls with no water to cushion the blow. On a surf photographer’s salary it was a must to protect the equipment so my back took the brunt of the impact, resulting in numerous cuts and abrasions followed by a bout of reef poisoning and a week in the hospital on a drip fighting infections. Worth the shot?
Brett Burcher, The Right, WA
That little body in there with no head belongs to Brett Burcher. I vividly remember this moment because I was in the perfect position for a fisheye shot at the Right. Finally, the shot I have been chasing for a number of years is at the end of my trigger finger. Then I see Brett hit the smallest of bumps, the fins let go and Brett was body surfing down a twenty-foot wave. Even Mark Cunningham would have been impressed up to the point of Burcher becoming one with the lip.