We all surf for the same reason. People from all walks of life slide around on waves created thousands of miles away, all feeling the same thing. As much as we bitch and complain about conditions and so-called kooks and argue about stupid, mindless little things, we’re all doing it because of a shared passion. We’ll suffer through early mornings, crowded lineups, blown out conditions, injuries… and we just keep paddling out. The surfing community is like one big family, all arguing over dinner, hating each other at some points, loving each other at others. And the ocean is the glue that keeps us together, keeping us coming back for more, no matter how hard we try and leave the table. Isn’t it great?
