The Ocean Will Always Feel Like Home to Me

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Whenever I leave the house to go for a surf my wife says, “Have fun at church.” I’ve always felt as though I was at home in the ocean, growing up surfing, bodysurfing, free diving, spearfishing and just swimming – anything to be in the water. I’ve even devoted a part of my career to being in the ocean as a lifeguard.

There is definitely something special about being in an environment humans aren’t built for. The meditative state the ocean can put you into forces attention to the moment, pushing any other stress or outside worries away. I find myself making the most of that meditative quality with my surf and water photography.

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