This particular image just came across my screen.
In my opinion it comes close to capturing the essence of the surfing lifestyle.
Surfers routinely try to explain to non-surfers why we’ve oriented our lives around riding waves and we usually fail, we come up short.
Sliding down the face of a wall of water is part of it… as is a lifelong exploration seeking new places to explore and ride. But it’s so much more than those things.
This image somehow captures it a bit more deftly.
The photo instantly takes me back to a San O session when the fog was so thick I couldn’t see oncoming waves until the shadow of the wall was upon me. Memorable session.
Never take for granted the simple joy of going surfing.