I wrote a post on Matt Schwartz three years ago. If you haven’t checked out his work, it’s worthy. Check it out here.
This particular image just came across my screen.
In my opinion it comes close to capturing the essence of the surfing lifestyle.
Surfers routinely try to explain to non-surfers why we’ve oriented our lives around riding waves and we usually fail, we come up short.
Sliding down the face of a wall of water is part of it… as is a lifelong exploration seeking new places to explore and ride. But it’s so much more than those things.
This image somehow captures it a bit more deftly.
The photo instantly takes me back to a San O session when the fog was so thick I couldn’t see oncoming waves until the shadow of the wall was upon me. Memorable session.
Never take for granted the simple joy of going surfing.